Randonneuring: What's it all about??
Cynthia F. Van Der Wiele, NCBC with added tips from Pete Bajema of Seattle International Randonneurs (SIR)
Audax rides are non-competitive
long distance tours by bicycle, called "randonneés".
The challenge of Audax is not in racing, but
in riding at your own pace to finish within the time limit. Audax events are
held in most parts of the United States and Canada, and you will be made very
welcome when participating in rides when visiting other Regions.
Rides are open to all reasonably fit riders – non-NCBC members are most welcome to join our friendly and supportive participants.
The word Audax comes from the Latin for "bold" or "courageous".
In 1897 a group of Italian cyclists rode 200 km between sunrise and sunset, and became known as
"les Audacieux".
In 1904, Henri Desgrange, the
father of the Tour de France, formed an Audax style of riding. It consisted of
a team of cyclists riding under the control of a captain at an average speed of
22.5 km/h. While this style still
exists in Europe, it is much less popular than the "Randonneé" which
later developed, individual long distance touring style cycling.
The North Carolina Bicycle Club offers rides
in Morrisville under the auspices of Les Randonneurs Mondiaux, the world-wide
body and Randonneurs USA (RUSA),
administrator of US events.
Historically, participants in the
NCBC brevets have been composed of three main elements:
- Hard-riding tourists,
- Ex-road racers and
- Current 24-hour time trialists.
It is my goal to provide new
randonneurs with a source of information about our sport.
It has developed into collection of
experiences and recommendations ranging from an explanation of terms to what
works and what to avoid. Some of the
more valuable items are the personal testimonials that may enrich another's
knowledge. If you have something to
contribute please contact: Al Johnson, Gilbert Anderson, Joe Grove or Cyndy Van Der Wiele.
If some of this information sounds contradictory it only reflects
the differing experiences of the contributing randonneurs.
[top]
- Randonneuring
- A
style of cycling in one or more events called brevets.
Brevets conform to a set of guidelines
defined by Audax Club Parisien (ACP) in France and amended for Americans by
Randonneurs USA {RUSA} in Middleton, RI.
- Brevets
- Formal events that are something in-between a race and a tour.
They are usually run as a series, each
brevet graduates in distance from the previous starting at 200 kilometers (km)
up to 1200 km.
Each brevet has a specific time limit to finish in that is based on the overall distance.
The minimum average speed to successfully
complete a brevet is just under 10 mph.
A detailed set of route navigating instructions (cue sheet) is provided
by the brevet organizer along with a passport or control card that must be
validated at specified points (controls or check points) along the way and
defined on the cue sheet. The
organizer may also set one or more hidden or secret controls to further insure
compliance to the defined route.
Support is not allowed between official controls.
Traditionally, brevets are training and
qualifying for entry in the Paris Brest Paris (PBP) event but not exclusive to
this end, especially in non-qualifying years; they are also required for
Boston-Montreal-Boston (BMB) or other 1200km events.
Brevets also test the reliability and effectiveness of your
equipment and preparation.
A typical scenario might be: after the start you ride in a group to the first control (an
AM/PM station.) Jump off the bike and
dash inside to get your control card time stamped and signed.
Find the toilet, buy enough food and drink
to get you to the next control. Jump
back on your bike and catch up with your group that left you behind for being
poky. A few variations might be: taking
a short nap, have breakfast with your buddy, sit staring into space until the
next bunch comes through, and dancing around a source of heat trying to get
feeling into your shivering body.
This summary of a brevet may sound
like all work and no play, but there is something special about the challenge
of randonneuring that makes the struggle worthwhile.
Certainly, the challenge
and sense of satisfaction of riding long distance unsupported puts each of us
in close touch with ourselves.
But the
best thing that you will get out of randonneuring is the camaraderie of joining
in the challenge with like-minded cyclists, of receiving a word of
encouragement from a fellow rider who knows exactly what you are feeling and of
being able to offer the same type of encouragement to other riders.
- Randonneurs
- Have been categorized as "Super Tourists."
- Nutrition
-
Fuel for the body is not discussed because of the complexity of what we like to or don't consume.
It's just too personal a
subject to generalize.
A phrase worth remembering is
"Eat before you're hungry, drink before you're thirsty."
Let it be said that you can't get too many calories on a randonneé, and you usually don't.
[top]
Over long distances
a comfortable frame is vital.
More people
abandon long rides because of sore backsides or numb hands than because of sore
legs! A really tight, twitchy racing
cycle is great fun to ride until tiredness and lack of concentration make it a
liability ...
even in daylight!
There is prevalent today an urge to
go for the lightest weight possible – often at the expense of durability.
There is nothing wrong with lightweight
bikes and components, but in choosing components be careful.
During a brevet, you are not permitted to
receive assistance outside of controls.
Randonneuring can be hard on your bicycle.
If a lightweight component breaks during a ride, it may signal
the end of your day.
Give yourself every advantage, go
for comfort.
After 40 or 80 hours of riding
you'll never regret it.
- Frame – fits your
body size and is properly setup for comfort.
Carbon fiber is an excellent shock deadening material.
The Softride beam bikes are a marvelous
invention for the long distance traveler.
The bouncing beam does its job to absorb road shock but does take a
while to adjust to.
- Wheels – rims,
spokes and tires.
A set of high quality
wheels built for comfort and durability is one of your best investments.
Large profile tires (23 C minimum 25 - 28 C are better) preferably with soft sidewalls give a more comfortable ride,
reducing the numbing effects of road vibration.
- With the larger tires 105 lbs of air pressure is sufficient to protect from pinch puncture and affords a luxurious ride.
It's pure fallacy that ultra hi-pressure reduces rolling resistance.
Mr. Tuffy tire inserts do work especially against glass punctures but add weight at the very worst place.
You must still inspect your tires periodically for cuts and imbedded debris.
Three cross spoke built wheels are a standard.
Radial pattern is for the macho.
Mavic makes a rim with ceramic braking surface.
It's worth its price in the safety it provides in wet conditions.
Tip: you only need the front
since that's where most of the stopping power is.
Checking your tire pressure before each ride will help prevent pinch flats.
- Seat – very personal.
Hopefully it includes some shock absorbing characteristics...
i.e. rubber mounted rails.
- Handle bars – should afford a variety of hand positions to reduce fatigue.
The anatomic style 6 or 8 bend work well.
- Handle Bar Tape – the purpose of handle bar tape is twofold.
It affords a degree of padding and provides a tactile gripping surface.
Cinelli cork tape does both exceedingly well.
Something you don't want is your hand slipping off the drop when you're zoned-out at 2 am.
You may want to consider some foam cushioning.
Hands can stay numb for
months at a time following PBP (my left hand was numb for 2 months afterwards).
- Tri-bars – are
legal in the US but discouraged, they are illegal on PBP.
They do offer some relief from pressure on
the hands and allow for a more aerodynamic body position.
The controversy is that they are dangerous
when used in a pack or pace line.
Always use extreme care riding in a pace line especially when with
unfamiliar riders.
- STI/Ergo shifters
- very desirable.
Chances are you'll
shift into the proper gear if you don't have a long reach to do it, especially
when your energy is most precious.
Being able to shift while standing is another nice feature.
- Lighting – What
kind of lighting to choose for randonneuring is the most frequently discussed
question among Randonneurs.
There is no
one clear answer.
The high-end systems
like Night Sun and Night Rider with water bottle batteries provide a flood of
light and are terrific for commuting, but the batteries do not last longer than 4-5
hours (at most) without recharging.
Many riders have had good experience running a pair of Cateye halogen
lights running off of D Cells or AA batteries.
Others supplement a handlebar-mounted battery with a lightweight
headlamp like those made by Petzel (which can be especially
useful when changing a flat tire or repairing one's machine at night).
Regardless of what you choose for your
primary lighting, ride with a back-up light, both front and rear.
In the back, Vista lights and their
equivalents work well, offer good visibility and are dependable.
Choose a version that allows a steady mode
as well as a flashing option.
Flashing
rear lights are not permitted in France and your fellow riders will thank you
if they do not have to ride behind to the annoyance of a flashing strobe.
Again, be sure to bring extra batteries and if possible and extra
bulb.
- Headlamp: D cells
rule.
Four in a box give you nearly 6
volts that will get you through the night and with a 5 watt bulb produces an
adequate beam.
D cells are the most
readily available and are used internationally.
The Cateye Hyper Halogen ($25) can be easily modified with a
short piece of lamp wire to use an auxiliary
4 D cell battery pack (Radio Shack $2.)
At least one extra bulb must be
carried.
Rear: more is better, you
want to be visible.
In Europe flashing
lights are illegal, make sure you can switch the strobe into a steady glow if
you go.
- Fenders – a must
in the Pacific Northwest and northern Europe.
Remember, they are not meant to protect you as much as those behind
you.
Novel concept.
Don't forget the flap extension, this is
where the real protection come from.
Attached with a plastic zip tie.
One gallon plastic milk containers are a good source for extension
material.
- Pump – if you
carry one make sure it works.
Most of
the mini-pumps are useless.
The Zefal
HPX is fast and is capable of blowing the tire off the rim.
Silca frame pumps can be a nuisance because
they do not lock on the valve.
Blackburn frame pumps not only lock on the valves to provide a secure
fit, but they also have a pivoting handle to provide more comfort and leverage
when pumping.
When you're tired and get
a puncture, you want to make getting back on the road as easy as possible.
- Pedals – SPD style
allow safe and comfortable walking.
Randonneurs spend more time than we admit to off the bike schlepping
about.
Speedplays are very popular due
to their float (easier on the knees).
Cleat/pedal float is a personal preference.
SPD pedals are fine for many riders but some complain of hot
spots during long rides due to the small platform of the pedal.
If
you use SPD's, make sure that your shoe has a very stiff sole.
Knee problems can also arise during a long
ride, if your pedals do not have sufficient float.
Time pedals offer a large platform for comfort and also feature
lots of float.
The cleats do wear out
while walking, and you will have to replace them more frequently than you will
with SPD's.
Always check your cleats
before an important ride.
- Bottle cages – 2
is the minimum, more is better unless you like carrying 7 lbs on your back
(although it is quite handy especially with hilly terrain/rough roads).
I carried a Camelbak (with plain water) as
well as bottles with Cytomax.
- Gearing – a 39 X
24 low is a reasonable minimum in the NW.
A triple is fabulous - your knees will thank you.
- Computer – which
ever one you use, make sure it's reliable and accurately calibrated to the
wheel you're riding.
Change the
batteries before they fail! Don't
forget to re-calibrate if you change the tire size i.e. use your folding spare
and it's a different size.
- Bags – a handlebar
bag keeps stuff (food, camera, ointments, face towel, etc.) reachable.
A good rule of thumb is to distribute
additional serious weight evenly between front and back (balance, something we
should strive for in life).
If you use
a rear mounted rack the tendency is to
overload it which effects the bicycle's balance and can make
handling dangerous. Move some weight
up-front.
Lower (low riders) is better
but compromises accessibility while riding.
- Front handlebar bags are particularly useful if they feature
a map window to place your route map.
If you do not use a handlebar bag, consider using a map holder that
attaches to your handlebar.
Some riders find that handlebar
bags affect handling and also obstruct headlights.
If you are not carrying too much weight, some riders use a rack
trunk and a rear rack.
Also, some manufacturers make large capacity seat bags,
which can be combined with a small fanny back to haul your gear (if you aren't
prone to back problems).
- Reflective tape – put it everywhere, you want to be seen!
More is better!
[top]
Your clothing must protect you from
a range of weather between wet and cold when descending a mountain pass in the
rain with a wind chill factor of below freezing to the hot and humid of North
Carolina in April/May/June, 100+ degree heat.
Keep in mind that you must carry what you use and if you don't have it
you can't use it. Versatility is key as
is compactness and light weight.
With
experience comes refinement in your cycling software.
Multiple light layers work better than a single heavy one.
They give you more flexibly in adjusting to
the prevailing conditions.
A good combination for a
"normal" ride might be, in addition to a short sleeve jersey and
shorts, leg warmers, a long-sleeve wicking undershirt or long-sleeve jersey, rain
shell, arm warmers, light-weight long-fingered gloves and a reflective
vest.
Sometimes, it can feel like a
nuisance to carry this much stuff, but if it starts to rain, gets cool and gets
late in the day, you will be glad you brought it along.
- Helmet – is
required.
Reflective tape is advisable
for night rides.
- Reflective garment
(vest) – must be worn after sunset.
The purpose is safety, too be seen at night.
The large reflective triangle commonly used is very effective but
not a substitute for a vest.
Reflective
ankle bands are very effective due to foot movement.
I would emphasize that a reflective vest is mandatory.
- Eye protection – is suggested for both day and night conditions.
- Rain jacket – A
high quality jacket is indispensable and also serves as windbreaker.
Burley makes a great one for under $100;
Nashbar makes an even cheaper one with reflective stripes, venting and a rear
pocket.
- Shorts – bibs are
wonderful, their comfort far out weigh any inconvenience.
Choice of chamois is as personal as food;
funny how that works.
- Tights or leg warmers
- necessary, especially at night.
Personally, I like the Giordana tights; they have a bend in the knee
that facilitates movement.
The Roubaix
tight is the warmest I've used in cool wet weather.
For colder temps, I put my rain pants over top.
- Balaclava/Skull cap
- handy for napping out of doors, genius in the extreme cold.
We lose 80% of our body heat from our
head.
Although a butt warmer may serve
a few better.
- Booties – recommend in cool rainy
conditions.
They provide a degree of
warm comfort and help prevent Achilles tendon injuries.
Some don't agree that booties are a
necessity.
They are nice to start off
with on an early spring ride or if it's raining when the ride start, but they
are a pain to carry.
I also prefer
lightweight socks of polypro or similar material – they do not bunch up or
create painful spots when riding-- again a matter of personal preference.
- Socks – wool is
warm when wet and cool in the heat and helps in the prevention of hotspots.
- Long and short
fingered gloves – good palm padding is desirable but not so much that your
hands will be uncomfortable or cramp when clinched.
- Other – I carry a
small damp face towel, it's handy for wiping a sweaty face while riding and
nothing refreshes better on a hot day than a cool cleanup at a control.
[top]
Needless to say a sound mind and body are requisite for randonneuring
with an emphasis on the former.
The graduated brevet series will whip you into shape physically but there is no
quick fix for the psyche.
We are a product of our life's experiences, for better or worse.
If you subscribe to zenism then a mantra may
get you through a difficult section, it will at least detach you from the
struggle.
My favorite is "either
I've done tougher or I'm setting a new personal record."
Riding with a partner is probably the best,
working together as a team, sharing the highs and helping each other through
the lows.
[top]
This is the most important article we don't carry.
At a minimum it should
contain sun block, anti-inflammation/pain pills, various size Band-Aids and
gauze pads, tube of antiseptic cream, antiseptic wipes, triangular bandage
(many uses, most common to immobilize a dislocated shoulder) and a card with
any personal medical alert information (if any) and an emergency contact
w/phone no. and address.
[top]
- Space blanket – is
one of the more important items you hope never to use.
They are light and compact.
Can be used as a
shelter in hot or cold conditions or cut to fit under your clothing in an
extreme emergency.
- Small light – One
that can be held in your teeth (leaving hands free) to assist in night repairs
or reading the cue sheet
- Spare tire – (folding type) and 3 tubes.
- Spokes – extra for
front wheel and both sides (which are different lengths) of rear wheel.
You can use electrical tape to hold it to
your frame.
- Lots of riders use compact tools.
Generally, I find that a set of the Allen wrenches that fit the
Allen screws on your bike, a small screw driver, spoke wrench and small
penknife work better and are not that inconvenient to carry along..
Compact all in one tools often compromise on performance for the sake of convenience.
If you insist on one of these types of
tools, though, I think that the Alien tool is the best.
- Knife – the tiny
Swiss Army classic is a monster tool with ultra sharp knife blade and
scissors.
Tooth pick and tweezers included.
- Tape – hunk of electricians (black plastic) or duct tape.
Handy for emergency repairs
- Mobile phone – can
be a lifesaver if not a convenience.
The best use I've seen is calling in an order for pizza while on route.
- Energy gel – very
handy for a short duration picker upper.
Carry lots.
- An alligator type clip zip tied to your handle bar stem
makes a convenient route sheet holder.
- Timex Expedition
Wristwatch – has a useful continuous count down timer feature.
Set it to how often you want to eat or drink
and the alarm will remind you. Cheap
and you can tell the time in the dark
- Especially useful on PBP is a small helmet-mounted light.
The route direction arrows are placed above the normal beam height of your head lamp to deter pilfering.
Petzel makes an excellent head lamp for spelunkers and potholers.
- A shock mounted handle bar stem like the Girvin is
effectively deadens road vibration. It
does take time adjusting to the free movement when standing but it's a small
inconvenience weighed against the comfort.
- Park Super (pre-glued)
Patches make a fast and effective tube repair.
They don't work on wet tubes.
- Kevlar cord emergency
spoke. Compact, one size fits all,
and it really works.
- Chain tool – the
Cyclo mini-tool compact, light and could save your bacon. Topeak's
"Alien" is a 20-piece "all in one tool, that is also highly recommended.
[top]
- The Brain – usually the first to go is good judgment.
An endearing quality of virtually all Randonneurs is persistence.
When you are bumping along well into a
brevet with little or no sleep, it's difficult to make good decisions.
It may be best to get off the bike and rest
but you don't realize that, you're zoned-out and running on auto pilot.
- Tires and tubes – this is where the rubber meets the road and bad things are expected to
happen. Carry extras, you will use
them. On one brevet a rider had 9
flats. Not all were attributed to road
junk. It's always prudent to resolve
the reason for flatting or you'll be into deja vu again.
- Avoid riding through a disintegrated radial truck tires, the
super fine steel wire is frustratingly difficult to find when imbedded in your
tire.
- Fork – a 15 year
old steel front fork blade was within a millimeter or two of catastrophic failure.
Luckily the rider noticed eccentric handling
and got off before a crash, his brevet was over.
Regular frame inspection is advised.
- Spoke nipples – alloy spoke nipples are prone to failure.
In this case two failed nipples caused the wheel to collapse on
route. Persevering, the rider was able
to get a complete wheel rebuild at a control and finished the PBP.
- Chain Wheel – sparing no expense on hired gun maintenance and best of show in equipment the
large chain wheel bolts loosened stripping the spider threads.
Again perseverance and money were the
solution to replacing the crank assembly which allowed him to finish PBP.
An equipment check prior to the start may
have detected the loose bolts.
- Cassette hub – it
was the best money could buy. The free
wheel mechanism froze turning his machine into a fix gear.
Limping into a PBP control, a new low tech
wheel was purchased and he continued on.
The damaged cassette hub was abnormally noisy out of the box and should
have been suspect but the manufactures name was trusted, erroneously.
- Heat exhaustion – classic failure to slow the pace down during the heat of the day.
No serious harm, just many hours lost while
recovering in first aid.
- Bearings – randonneuring is tremendously hard on headsets, hubs, and bottom brackets.
Check these for loss of grease frequently,
especially after rainy rides. One
experienced randonneur neglected to check his bottom bracket before PBP, had
his bottom bracket seize during the event
and lost so much time getting it repaired that he finished
outside of the time limit. A sealed
bottom bracket minimizes maintenance but should still be checked
periodically. Chris King headsets cost
more than their competitors but wear so much better that they are cheaper in
the long run..
[top]
Here is a randonneuring bike that works for John Wagner of Seattle International Randonneurs
- Bicycle – Talisman, custom made frame by Rob Collins (Seattle)
for a Softride beam (softest flex),
Reynolds tube set, Time carbon fiber fork.
Geometry is equivalent to a conventional 56 cm sport frame, wheel base 99 cm.
The only thing I'd change is a few more centimeters in the wheelbase.
- Saddle – Selle Italia Titanium rail Turbomatic.
- Handle Bar (HB) – Modolo 8 bend with Cinelli cork tape.
Mavic stem.
A Girvin flex stem is in the future.
- Group – Shimano Ultegra STI 8 speed.
- Gearing – front 53 X 39, rear 12 X 23 or 13 X 28, depending on use.
- Wheels – 32 spoke, 3 cross, 15 gauge.
Mavic Ceramic (coated braking surface) rims provide superb braking in the rain.
Ripstop rim tape is light and doesn't melt in the heat.
Mavic hubs w/ sealed bearings are maintenance free and smooth running.
- Tires – Continental Super Sport Ultra folding 700 X 25C.
Inflated to 100 lbs. max.
Kevlar bead is lightweight where it counts, flexible sidewalls give a luxurious ride but are damageable.
- Bottom bracket – Mavic sealed (no maintenance) bottom bracket.
- Fenders – Full coverage front and rear.
6" flap extension on rear (most important.)
- Pedals – Shimano Dura Ace SPD.
Used since '92, maintenance free.
MB type shoe with recessed cleat allows safe, comfortable walking.
- Handlebar bag – Quix detachable.
Small enough to fit inside of Shimano STI cables, large enough to hold what I need close at hand.
- Rear rack – Blackburn.
J&D trunk pack (well fastened) holds spare folding tire, food, clothing and tools.
An extra bungy strap is handy in an emergency.
- Headlight – Cateye, similar performance as Hyper –
hung at the end of an L shape PVC bracket attached to HB to clear the HB bag.
Power by an auxiliary battery pack holding 4 D cells and spare bulb.
- Taillight – multiple VistaLites.
- Bottle cages – Elite, holds well yet allows easy extraction.
Pros use them in Paris-Roubaix.
On PBP we hit some cobble at speed at night and equipment went flying.
My gear stayed on.
[top]
- Bicycle – Peugeot Ventoux, probably made in the early 1980s;
501 Reynolds Cromalloy.
Started life as a 12-speed.
Touring geometry.
Solid, sturdy, reliable.
- Saddle – Giro Pavé; switched to Giro Vitesse after the fact.
I'm testing out a Brooks Womens Pro.
I think the all-leather aspect will improve comfort and breathability!
- Handle Bar (HB) – Cinelli with Cinelli cork tape.
Mavic stem.
- Grouppo – Campagnolo Racing Triple 8 speed.
- Wheels – 32 spoke, 3 cross, 15 gauge.
Mavic open pro rims.
Shimano RX100 hubs.
- Tires – Forté (Performance) kevlar folding 700 X 23C.
Inflated to 125 lbs max.
- Fenders – Silver plastic with full coverage front and rear.
- Pedals – Ritchey logic; SPD compatible.
- Handlebar bag – Overland detachable with multiple outside pockets and a mapcase.
- Headlight – Union generator light with a Zefel battery-operated light as backup.
- Taillight – Union generator taillight plus a CatEye model which is also approved as a reflector.
- Bottle cages – Elite aluminum.
[top]
- Personal support vehicles are prohibited and will
result in immediate disqualification.
- Helmets are required at all times when you are on your
bike moving forward.
- Brevets will go on, rain, snow, sleet, hail and/or WIND
notwithstanding.
- Front and rear lights, affixed securely to your
bicycle, are required any time you are riding before sunrise or after sunset
during the 2000 NCBC brevets.
The French more strict on lights, extra
batteries, and extra bulbs.
No lights, no brevet credit!
- Clip-on (aero) handlebars are traditionally not allowed
in French events.
This restriction the safety issues involving group
riding.
Aerobars will not be allowed on
NCBC brevets if you are riding to qualify for Boston-Montreal-Boston in 2000.
[top]
[top]Notes:
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